Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
